Hokuto, Yamanashi, Japan｜八ヶ岳えさき

[It's still a three star after all] It's already been five years since Aoyama's "Esaki", which had received three stars for seven consecutive years, moved to Yatsugatake. I visited him several times when I was in Tokyo. For those coming to this restaurant in Yatsugatake by train, it takes about 20 minutes by taxi from Kobuchizawa. Only one group for lunch and dinner. Maximum of 6 people can be accommodated, but today we were visiting by 2 people by car. 19,800 yen including tax (service charge not included). I think it's as reasonable for modern Japanese food as it was during the Aoyama era. Since I had to drive, I toasted with a non-alcoholic beer, Otaru Beer (900 yen including tax). It may have something to do with the cup, but it lathers beautifully. The richness and bitterness are moderate and easy to drink. We talked a little about our time in Tokyo, but Mr. Ezaki only vaguely remembers it. Well, you're right, it's been difficult to make reservations, and it's been nearly 10 years since I last visited. Start cooking right away... [Appetizer] "Ezo black abalone, the sauce is only vegetables"...The soft steamed black abalone is soft, and the vegetable sauce made without using dairy products doesn't have a lot of seasoning, but it's gentle, delicious, and comforting. The taste. 【Bowl】… ``Matsutake mushrooms from Iwate, tuna flakes in a soup stock, garnished with yuzu skin''...The true quality of Japanese cuisine is whether it's delicious or not, but of course Mr. Ezaki made a very delicious soup. It was delicious with lots of the last matsutake mushrooms of the season. [Aemono] ``Persimmon and Hokkaido scallops with oil''...Sweet persimmons and scallops go well together...an eye-opening dish. 【sliced ​​raw fish】 ``Aomori flounder, engawa and horse dung sea urchin from Yaishiri Island''...Aomori flounder and engawa with a little ginger and soy sauce gives it a firm and plump texture. Horse manure sea urchin has an elegant, gentle and noble taste. I tried wrapping the flounder in horse dung sea urchin and eating it, but 1+1 didn't turn out to be more than 2... Eating alone is the correct answer. I asked Mr. Ezaki a question here. How can such fresh fish be obtained in Yatsugatake, which is surrounded by mountains? The surprising answer was, ``Currently, transportation conditions are good, and in fact, Mizuki goes to Toyosu in Tokyo, and depending on the item, he transports the animals alive and lets them swim in the tank behind his house.'' No wonder it's delicious. [Takiawase] Speaking of Mr. Ezaki, this is the dish. The old specialty ``Kinki Boiled'' is now available. I feel nostalgic and happy. ...Nemuro pole-and-line fish simmered. Garnish with grilled broccoli and roasted carrots. This menu has always been excellent. In Tokyo, you can also eat it at ``Japanese Restaurant Wakabayashi,'' run by Mr. Wakabayashi, who was the sous chef during the old Esaki era. However, Mr. Ezaki's sauce seems to be less sweet. I like both, but Wakabayashi-san makes me want white rice. 【cooked rice】 “Chestnut rice”…The rice is not sticky rice but regular rice. Use Ibaraki Iinuma chestnuts. The miso used is made by Ezaki himself. ...The chestnuts and rice have a good balance, and the sesame seeds sprinkled on top add to the flavor. 【drink】 Choose between ``hand-drip Okinawan coffee'' or ``homemade citrus spice tea.'' Choose coffee. ``Raw honey'' that doesn't need to be put through a centrifuge along with coffee came out. The honey is very thick and has a very rich taste. You can eat it as is or add it to Okinawan coffee, so take a lick of it and then add it to your coffee. It's not overly sweet, but has a gentle sweetness and plenty of nourishment. 【sweetness】 “Azuki and custard gratin”…Hotly baked custard cream and sweet red beans go well together. I'm also happy that they serve a proper sweet instead of fruit. When we calmed down and started talking, Mr. Ezaki seemed to remember me. “Ah, Kawai-san from H-do!?︎, I first came here with Mr. Y (unfortunately, Mr. Y was put on the demon register at a young age nearly 10 years ago), and Wakabayashi is also indebted to me! Ah, I understand. "..." *(Wakabayashi refers to Mr. Wakabayashi, who was the sous chef during the time of "Aoyama Esaki" and now runs "Japanese Restaurant Wakabayashi" in Gaienmae) For some reason, the distance between us suddenly became shorter, and we ended up having a fun conversation for a while while looking out at the 5,000-square-foot garden. I'll bother you again. For me, just like Aoyama, Yatsugatake is still a three-star restaurant that I should go out of my way to visit.

First visit. This restaurant is limited to one owner and one group per day (daytime and nighttime). The food and atmosphere are all perfect. Ingredients are carefully selected and ordered in season from all over the country, and the host prepares them into the best dishes. It was a series of dishes that made me say "delicious!" from the beginning to the end. It would be great if you could eat seasonal dishes. I would love to go again!

A regular summer event. I am thankful that I was able to receive it this year as well. Visited “Yatsugatake Esaki” for the first time in a year Happy to be here again this year Esaki's cooking is as amazing as ever. Ezo abalone and natural scallops from Hokkaido Chita Peninsula snow crab with ponzu sauce Noto mozuku and tuna soup Koshu beef chateaubriand Sauteed hard peaches and passion fruit sauce Served with figs Shiroshita flounder and Chita peninsula flounder Oma Bafununi Ise lobster with yuzu miso sauce Corn rice and Manganji pepper miso soup Finally, the coconut milk bavarois is topped with Miyazaki mango puree. I would like to do my best this year so that I can come here again next year. Yatsugatake is really cool and it feels like summer vacation when I come here. You may understand the beauty of summer better when you come to the plateau. Theme song of Jiro Tamiya's Welcome to the Highlands While humming Komuro's ``Ohaya no Asa''. Drive through Yatsugatake.